Civil disobedience?

Or the power of unity?

In times past the people of Siwa built a fortress on a hill in their oasis, creating a stronghold that kept them safe from intruders. The lush oasis in Egypt’s western desert has long been a place, where only those arrived, who were willing to persevere and suffer. Siwa wasn’t for everyone. Visiting the oasis came with many days traveling on horse or camel back, either from the northern coast or from the river Nile. Those setting out on the journey needed to be well-prepared, carry lots of water and protect themselves against sand and the scorching sun. The desert oasis wasn’t only protected by its inhabitants, it was equally protected by the elements and higher powers. Armies are said to have disappeared in sand storms on their way to Siwa. Nothing was ever heard or seen of them again. Only those, who were meant to arrive, would arrive, and even they were met with resistance and distrust. The Siwan people weren’t fond of outsiders. They also weren’t waiting for rulers to tell them what to do. The challenges they faced for many centuries, created a strong sense of community, passed on from generation to generation. United they stood, united they stand.

It took many centuries and much resistance, before the people of Siwa surrendered to being governed. But, did they ever really? Maybe they simply found a way of ending the violent missions of rulers towards them by pretending a form of surrender.
Not only is much of their traditions and culture kept alive, they are also creative when it comes to dealing with regulation. There is no land register in Siwa. Buying land comes with a payment and the signing of an agreement between seller, buyer and a few witnesses. There is little chance anyone will ask for a permit to build on his land, or for hotels, restaurants and shops to follow the procedures and regulation of the Egyptian government.
While nowadays a tarmac road from the coast to the oasis significantly shortens the travel time to the oasis, it still is a fair distance and the word about unwanted visitors will have spread before they reach the village of Shali.

“The restaurant where I always eat my breakfast, called me. They are closed”, an acquaintance told me one morning, during my visit to Siwa last month.
It wasn’t just his breakfast restaurant that was closed. All restaurants and shops in the village had their doors shut and it was yet unknown how long the closure would last.
The evening before everything was business as usual. There were no signs or announcements of the village shutting down. It was decided overnight, triggered by the arrival of the annual delegation of a government department charged with checking paperwork.
“They don’t really care about the paperwork. They just want money”, a restaurant owner tells me.
Someone else, who made the effort to have the correct papers, states that barely anyone in Siwa cares about paperwork. The oasis may nowadays officially be ruled by Egypt, the reality is that Siwa is more or less above the law. The Siwan people live their life, doing what they deem just. And that’s what they also do on those few days per year, when a delegation is sent in from Cairo. The officials find themselves on a mission-near-impossible; doors are closed and phone calls aren’t answered.
After two days the delegation gave in. They managed to out-trick a few shop owners by coming out around midnight. A lesson learned for those few. Overall the force of the united business owners in Siwa has won.
Barely have the officials left the oasis or shops and restaurants in Shali open again. No complaints were heard about the temporary loss of income. No business owner cared about what tourists would think of it. They simply did things the Siwan way.
No-one in the oasis lacked food. Backdoor deals were made, and out of the town center the mama and papa restaurants were doing good business.

Back in the years in Mali, I was among the rare few, who had all paperwork for my travel agency in order. I considered it to be for the best interest of myself, my team and our clients. As many others, I could have opted for handing over a sum of money here and there to speed up the process. I didn’t and have never regretted the effort and time it took to hand over a 100% correct file to the Ministry of Tourism.
The other side of me, the rebel at heart, had a good laugh of appreciation for the unity of the people in Siwa. It proved a point I have many times made during my years in Mali: if all stand united, the power is with the people.

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Intrigued by Siwa?
Wondering what it can offer you?
Contact me to learn more about the retreat I am hosting in November. There are a few days left to take advantage of the early booking discount.

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